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44 to Dana 70 swap

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  • 44 to Dana 70 swap

    My ujoint on my drive shaft will not work on the 70. Do they make a basterd joint that big. New Shaft ,i would hate to have to chop it. Whats my options.

  • #2
    I dont have a answer for you, but would like to here about your rig.

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    • #3
      yea tell us more about your rig!!!!
      1998 Jeep Cherokee,183K 4.0,D30 Aussie locked,Chry 8.25,4.88 gears,AJ's OffRoad Armor Super Suckrails,C4x4 Winch Bumper with Warn XD9000I , 6.5" RE lift., TNT longarms 33x12.50x15 Mud Rovers , If it moves and shouldn't, use Duct Tape & Zip Ties... If it doesn't move and should, use WD-40 & aHammer SOLD!!!
      sigpic

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      • #4
        If you dont want to butcher your driveshaft, get a new yoke that is the correct size. Thats your second best alternative.

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        • #5
          I did my own shafts for my axle swap. Cut around the weld and knock the end out of the tube, then shortened the tube to length and welded the end back in. You could find a couple of shafts that will work together and get creative.

          Or have a shop build one. Not sure what that would cost. If you want them balanced for street use, I'd prob get them made at a shop. Mine are trail use only and have never gone above around 45 mph.

          Pics of my front shaft for the YJ that needed shortened. I also shortened a rear shaft from a Waggy. Hope that helps. Mine was welded with my 110V Hobart and they are still holding.





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          • #6
            Drivetrain of mesquite is the popular choice around here.

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            • #7
              if you are saying that the u-joint is just the wrong size then you can use a "conversion" joint. they were factory on my 3/4 ton trucks using FF rear axles and a 1310 yoke driveshaft. that is how my dana 70b was taken care of. i can get you the correct part number but i need more info on the dana 70. I need the model, and make of vehicle it came out of. is it a 70, 70u, 70b, or 70hd? ford? dodge? or chevy? it is not a bastard joint at all, very common. actually the o'rielly's i worked at had like 3 of them on the shelf when i bought mine. they were around 9.99 for the cheapy, and 21.99 for the lifetime warranty.
              clay

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              • #8
                Not that this helps you directly, but I had to buy cross-over or conversion u-joints when I swapped in a set of Rubi 44s, 1310 to 1330. I would think they have the same type thing for what you are doing.

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